manni nössing
Valle isarco (alto adige)
“Manni Nössing is one of Italy’s most talented winemakers. In fact, all his wines are so good that it’s virtually impossible to pick the best of the lot, or even a favourite...”
Manni began his project in 2000 after deciding to stop selling his grapes to the local cooperative. He has no formal wine training but is from a long line of farmers with respect for terroir and a desire to represent it authentically. His 5 hectares of vines sit between 650-800m in Valle Isarco/Eisacktal Valley, an extraordinary corner of Alto Adige (formerly Austria) that is dazzling to the eye and capable of crystalline, aromatic white wine. All varieties are vinified in steel followed by 8 months on lees where texture is developed.
Manni Nössing is about as humble as any winemaker can get, and just happens to also be making some of the top white wines coming out of all of Italy. Nössing works five hectares of vineyards around the town of Bressanone, northeast of Bolzano. These are all steep, hillside locations, most with southern exposures, and between 650 to 800 meters. The selection of grapes he grows runs the Alto Adige gamut, with Kerner, Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Sylvaner and Gewürztraminer. However, at this house, Kerner is king, and befittingly so. In fact, it’s difficult to compare Manni Nössing’s Kerner to many others (Günther Kerschbaumer of Köfererhof comes to mind). According to Nössing the real trick is battling the over-ripeness that’s obtainable from his vineyards. It’s because of this that he chooses not to green harvest or deleaf, which shades the fruit from the extreme light of the Valle Isarco. The majority of his portfolio is refined completely in stainless steel, spending around nine months on the lees, while 50% of the Grüner Veltliner spends that same time in neutral acacia barrels. Acidity, minerality and verticality are his recipe for success, and after tasting through the portfolio, and back to 2010 with Nössing at his winery, I’d say that he’s certainly got the right idea.
THE WINES
Manni Nössing Südtirol Eisacktaler DOC Kerner
From a 2.5 hectare Guyot-trained vineyard at 700 metres that faces south.
Planted between 2000 and 2015. Gentle whole bunch press, followed by 24-48 hours rest. Fermented cool in stainless steel for 10-12 days then aged on fine lees for 8 months. No malo.
“Decidedly green in the best possible way, the 2023 Kerner launches from the glass with zest of lime and sour melon, hints of young kiwi and spice. It washes across the palate with silken, nearly oily textures and ripe, citrus-inflected orchard fruits as a bump of juicy acidity adds energy throughout. Long and saturating through the close, the 2023 reveals its underlying minerality and leaves an impression of lovely freshness.” 94 points - Eric Guido, Vinous
“Straw green. Minerals, aromatic herbs, and pear on the inviting nose and in the mouth, but not quite as explosive as some past vintages. Closes long and bright with a hint of late minerality. Only 12% alcohol but packs in a ton of flavour. Wonderful sugar/acid balance (7.1 g/L total acidity), about 5% is aged in tonneau...Nossing is known as Mr.Kerner, this is the most important wine for him, and it has been for a long time. Nothing strange there, as he is uniquely gifted with the variety and his Kerner wine has long been the best of Alto Adige (only Köfererhof can rival his, but the two wines are really very different, so both have many fans).” 93 points – Ian d'Agata Wine Review
Manni Nössing Südtirol Eisacktaler DOC Sylvaner
From a 0.3 hectare Guyot-trained vineyard at 700 metres that faces south.
Planted 2021. Gentle whole bunch press, followed by 24-48 hours rest. Fermented cool in stainless steel for 10-12 days then aged on fine lees for 8 months. Aged in stainless steel and a small percentage in used tonneaux. No malo.
“Pale green-straw colour. Honey, quince, green apple, and white flowers on the nose and in the mouth. Gentle, nicely hrmonious acidity (7 g/L total acidity) gives this an easy to drink quality and really extends the mineral, orchard fruit and citrus flavours on the long back end. About 5-10% matures in used tonneaux (his first Sylvaner to go partly into tonneaux was the 2023). No malo, stainless steel. The Sylvaner has always been one of Nossing’s best wines; he first made it in 2000. 3000 bottles only, unfortunately.” 95 points – Ian d'Agata Wine Review
Manni Nössing Südtirol Eisacktaler DOC Müller-Thurgau ‘Sass Rigais’
From an 0.8 hectare Guyot-trained vineyard at 800 metres that faces south. Gentle whole bunch press followed by 24-48 hours rest. Fermented cool in stainless steel for 10-12 days then aged on fine lees for 8 months. No malo.
"This is great. Straw-green. The nose boasts lime, grapefruit, and tangerine, with hints of thyme and rosemary and is complicated by noteworthy minerality. Fresh and juicy in the mouth but also very refined, with similar flavours to the aromas. Finishes saline, with a little citrus fruit repeating. Very pretty, laser-like Müller!. Stays about a year on the lees. No malo lactic and steel tank only, there’s about 6000 bottles a year. First made in 2000, but the first time it was labeled as Sass Rigais was 2007. This is obviously a grand cru for Müller, the wine is better than many Riesling wines you’ll try, even from famous German producers." 95 points – Ian d'Agata Wine Review
"Like chiseling away at sheer rock, the 2021 Müller-Thurgau Sass Rigais opens with a smoky and chalky burst of minerality that I find wildly attractive. With swirling, the palate leans more toward fruit, revealing lime zest and crushed green apples. This is silky-smooth, displaying undeniable elegance, just as a salty flourish and citrus-tinged acids effortlessly cut through its textural opulence. The 2021 finishes dry with tropical inner florals and tension that demands patience. The Sass Rigais can be enjoyed today for its potential, but further cellaring is recommended." - Eric Guido, Vinous
FURTHER READING
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