BODEGAS CÉSAR FLORIDO
Chipiona, DO Jerez
“César Florido’s name is synonymous with moscatel. His moscatel is the reference point for the classic, balanced sweet wines of the zone, characterized by notes of orange blossom, jasmine, and a honeyed, raisiny palate.”
Founded in 1887, the winery is now run by César Florido, a sixth-generation descendant of the founder. It is the oldest in Chipiona and one of the oldest in the Marco de Jerez, located just eight kilometres along the coast from Sanlúcar de Barrameda. The estate comprises three separate bodegas in the town, one of which houses his iconic Cruz del Mar solera, just 50 metres from the Atlantic Ocean. The family also maintains a solera in Sanlúcar de Barrameda for Manzanilla production. With more than 20 hectares of their own vineyards and holdings in a number of premier pagos, this is the whole grower-producer package.
César Florido is famed for Moscatel, producing in three distinct styles: Dorado, Especial, and Pasas — benchmarks for the classic, balanced sweet wines of the zone, marked by orange blossom and jasmine on the nose, and a honeyed, raisiny palate. The Moscatel vines are planted around the village of Chipiona, in its sandy-clay soils, as well as in the premier albariza soils of Añina and Balbaína.
Beyond Moscatel, César Florido's Palomino Fino wines are equally exceptional. Fermented with native yeasts, the Fino develops beneath a thick flor sustained year-round by Chipiona's maritime humidity, before the range moves through Amontillado to a fully oxidative Oloroso.
THE WINES
Cruz del Mar
100% Palomino Fino grapes grown by César’s family in the Balbaína and Miraflores Pagos. Spontaneous fermentation in traditional cement vats (lagares). After fortification to 15% ABV, the Fino spends three years aging biologically under a continuous veil of flor in very old barrels, in a bodega located just 50 meters from the Atlantic ocean.
"The Cruz del Mar is the paradigm of summer Fino, ideal to drink at the beach... With its firm structure, salty touches, tense acidity, details of mushrooms and the textured sensation of drinking lime, this is a mirror of the white albariza soil of Jerez." 93 points, Wine & Spirits Magazine
“A compelling, super-saline Fino bottled at 5-6 years of age, this wine is broad and sapid on the palate with a distinctive lime twist. Complex yet approachable; excellent value.” 94 points - Matthew Forster, Tim Atkin Jerez Top 100 2025
“A clean, vibrant appley Fino with a hint of vanilla spice. Fairly full-bodied, convincingly structured, with salted almonds and a whiff of the ocean, this is another very good wine from up-and-coming sherry artisan Cesar Florido.” 90 points - Wojciech Bonkowski MW, Tim Atkin Jerez Special Report 2024
Manzanilla Florido
Moscatel Dorado
Late-harvested moscatel grapes from family vineyards – their lightest style Moscatel. Destemmed, pressed and spontaneous fermented in traditional cement vats (lagares). Neutral grape spirit is added to stop fermentation. Aged in old barrels for one year.
“Moscatel thrives on Chipiona's sandy soils, and Cesar Florido is taking his family business to new heights. Moscatel Dorado is a grapey, sweet classic, full of juicy fruit. There are different styles of Moscatel to try. His dense Moscatel Pasas has the succulence of sundried grapes.” 91 points - Sarah Jane Evans, MW
“A unique and authentic wine championing Moscatel de Chipiona (Muscat of Alexandria), this is - understandably - a bestseller for Bodegas Cesar Florido. Exquisitely balanced, with around 2oog/l residual sugar, it is a wine of remarkable finesse. o muskiness here, just light spearmint, lemon curd and honeysuckle flavours dancing across the palate, with a firm streak of salinity. A tour de force at a remarkably keen price.” 97 points - Matthew Forster, Tim Atkin Jerez Top 100 2025
Moscatel Pasas
Made in special vintages in limited quantities from grapes that were dried in the sun on esparto mats for up to three weeks, a process called asoleo. These raisin wines have a sweeter, darker profile with a meditative finish. All grapes are sourced from the Florido family vineyards planted on the sandy clay soils of Chipiona. After harvesting, the raisinated grapes are allowed to start a spontaneous fermentation with natural yeast, undergoing alcoholic fermentation in traditional cement vats (lagares). Neutral grape spirit is added to stop fermentation. Aged in old barrels for one year.
“As the name suggests, this wine is produced from raisined grapes. After harvest, bunches are sun-aged in direct contact with the earth to yield an intensely sweet wine. Dense and mouthcoating it still has tremendous zip and vim on the palate with stewed date and fig, cardamom and citrus peel flavours. Accomplished winemaking.” 97 points - Matthew Forster, Tim Atkin Jerez Top 100 2025
Moscatel Especial
Late-harvested moscatel grapes from family vineyards. Destemmed, pressed and spontaneous fermented in traditional cement vats (lagares). Neutral grape spirit is added to stop fermentation. Especial sees the addition of traditional arrope, which gives the wine its unique, complex flavors. Aged in old barrels for two years.
Arrope is boiled moscatel must that is reduced until it is a thick syrup, which is then aged in its own solera for decades before being added to a base wine. Arrope is an ancient part of winemaking in southern Spain, dating back at least to the Phoenicians. In the 20th century, arrope had nearly been lost due to the difficult elaboration process, but rare historic bodegas like César Florido continue the tradition.
“After a year and a half of solera ageing, arrope is added to this Moscatel, which then integrates over a further year and a half before bottling. Intense, coffee and caramelised chicory flavours. Sweet but not sticky, this wine still has a salty kick, a fresh sea breeze quality that grounds it in Chipiona.” 95 points - Matthew Forster, Tim Atkin Jerez Top 100 2025
FURTHER READING
