DOMAINE SÉROL
CÔTE ROANNAISE
“I’ve been a fan of Sérol’s Gamays ever since I encountered them at the Troisgros restaurants in and around Roanne.”
Just 70 km west of Beaujolais, in the foothills of the Massif Central, Côte Roannaise is a tiny Gamay focused appellation. Akin to cru Beaujolais with its sandy, granite soils and Gamay focus, but 1/100th the size, its vineyards are found at higher altitudes (350-500m) and ripen later. It is cooler here and Gamay is known as Gamay Saint-Romain. Unlike the Gamay in Beaujolais, Saint-Romain has loosely spaced berries that vary in size, leading to naturally lower yields. This terroir makes for crisp wines of small red fruits and a spicy freshness that richer Beaujolais doesn’t achieve.
Stéphane and Carine Sérol are the fifth generation of Domaine Sérol, taking the reins in 1996. Their vineyards are organically and biodynamically certified and Stéphane is renowned across France for his work in viticulture; he recently elevated the winery to carbon neutral, installing a geothermal system. Their mouth-watering wines are a product of their densely planted vineyards (8000-10000 per hectare), old vines (some dating to the 1930s) and high-altitude sites (400-500m). Fermentations are natural and the wines are refreshing, vibrant and mineral, a testament to great wine making skill.
Domaine Sérol is a triumph from the little-known end of the Loire valley. As one of the most important producers of Côte Roannaise, they add a strong voice to ‘Loire Volcanique’, a recent initiative to unite like-minded growers from neighbouring appellations Auvergne, Forez and Saint-Pourçain. The group exists to communicate the terroirs of the southern section of the Loire valley and Massif Central. The Sérol’s are also viticultural partners with Michel Troisgros, famed local chef from one of France’s top institutions, Maison Troisgros. It is here that revered author Jancis Robinson discovered Sérol’s wines, helping to introduce them to an international audience.
THE WINES
NV Domaine Sérol Pet-Nat Rosé ‘Turbullent’
Gamay made by the ancestral method. Direct pressed, with fermentation started in tank at low temperature using indigenous yeasts. Bottled with no added dosage, so fermentation finishes in bottle, still on indigenous yeasts. Stabilised using the transfer method. Crown cap. 10.5% alc, 5g/l natural residual sugar. Certified organic (FR-BIO-01). Vin de France.
This is about as good as pink Pet-Nat gets!
"Delicious! Wicked drinking, rosy with red cherries, sappy texture, little nibble of chalky tannin, bright, pink grapefruit acidity. Fun. It zips along at pace with a friendly, red fruited delivery. Drinkability is through the roof! Yes." - Mike Bennie, The Wine Front
Domaine Sérol Chenin Blanc Sur-Granite ‘Champtoisé’ (1.5l Magnums available)
In 2018, the Sérols’ friends at Domaine Huet and François Chidaine, two of the Loire’s most celebrated Chenin producers, gave them cuttings from their best parcels. These were planted on Champtoisé, a 1.9 hectare granite hillside at 400m, right next to Perdrizière, Sérol’s most important Gamay site. The result is a rare chance to taste great Chenin genetics grown on granite at altitude.
The vines are densely planted and farmed biodynamically. Grapes are hand-picked, direct-pressed and fermented with wild yeasts in a mix of 500-litre barrels, a large foudre and cement, then aged on lees for more than ten months in oak.
Domaine Sérol Côte Roannaise AOP ‘Eclat de Granit’ (1.5l Magnums available)
Densely planted Gamay Saint-Romain (Loire cultivar) at 400-530m in granite soils and pruned Guyot Poussard which respects the flow of the sap. They use biodynamic preparations and cover crops, ploughing only under the rows. Hand-harvested. Spontaneously fermented with ambient yeast in concrete tanks with 20% whole bunches. 15–20 days on skins then aged 11 months in the same tanks. Certified organcic (FR-BIO-01) and biodynamic (Biodyvin).
“Mid to light cherry red. Fragrant with dark-red but not overly sweet fruit – more raspberry than strawberry – and a notable stony-mineral impression like crushed stones. Relatively light-bodied, beautifully fresh and well-structured by the finest of tannins – the tannins that seem to be characteristic of granite and Gamay without oak. Real finesse and a long finish but so light on its feet and only 12% alcohol.” 17 points – Julia Harding MW for Jancis Robinson.
Domaine Sérol Côte Roannaise AOP ‘Chez Coste’
Gamay Saint-Romain from the ‘Chez Coste’ lieu-dit in the heart of Perdrizière: 1.5 hectares of 30-year-old vines on deep, decomposed granite (gorrhe) at 400m, facing east. Densely planted at 8,500 vines/ha, trellised high (foliage to 1.70m) and pruned Guyot Poussard. Composted, dynamised estate manure and annual cover crops, with soil worked only under the rows. Hand-harvested into 12kg boxes and sorted on vibrating tables. Fully destemmed and vinified in amphora with no added sulphur. Around 7 months of maceration by infusion with indigenous yeasts, then slow pressing and a further 4 months in amphora. Lightly filtered. Certified organic (FR-BIO-01) and biodynamic (Biodyvin).
Striking, silky and refined, this is a textural masterclass in Gamay. Along with violet, dense cherry and strawberry there's spice and flickers of citrus zest and iron. 'Chez Coste' has depth and amplitude with fine, supple tannins that bolster and guide it. Seamless and pure.
FURTHER READING
To read more on Domaine Sérol follow the links below:
https://www.beckywasserman.com/domaines/robert-serol/#.Ybav131Bzzc
