Cantine garrone
Valli Ossolane DOC
“These wines should be on any Nebbiolo fancier’s radar. So distinctive and good.”
Valli Ossolane DOC
Val d'Ossola — its name derived from the Roman Ossolanum, itself rooted in the ancient Celtic Osolan, meaning "elevated" — is home to Piedmont's northernmost DOC, sitting at the same latitude as Valtellina. It is home to Prünent, first recorded here in 1309, a biotype of Nebbiolo that Pliny the Elder described as clinging to mountainsides, seemingly "eating the fog." Viticulture is a mosaic of small plots on steep hillsides and rocky terraces, trained on pergolas reminiscent of Carema. Granted DOC status only in 2009 as Valli Ossolane, the valley's winemaking history runs far deeper, yielding some of the most distinctive, fine-boned Nebbiolo wines made today.
A typical Prünent vineyard in Valli Ossolane. The size of a small restaurant dining room.
Cantine Garrone
Cantine Garrone sits in one of Piedmont's wildest, most remote corners, wedged into the Alps on the Swiss border in Val d'Ossola, the region's northernmost appellation. Founded in 1921 by Luigi Garrone, the estate is now run almost exclusively by the fourth generation, brothers Marco and Matteo. In the 1990s, realising local growers could no longer sustain commercial production alone, the family began working with the local farming community to save the valley's vineyards from disappearing. Today they own 3.5 hectares outright and manage a further 7.5 through more than forty growers, farming vines up to a century old on the traditional toppia pergola system, at 500 metres with south/southwest exposure. Essential wines for any Nebbiolo lover.
THE WINES
Cantine Garrone Valli Ossolane DOC Chardonnay ‘La Gera’
In Ossolane dialect, ‘gera’ means ‘stony ground’, reflecting the rocky, glacial-marine soils of this small, east facing vineyard in Oira. You can see the ten year old (2023), terraced Chardonnay vines from the ancient Garrone cellar (and the village cheese cave!). Made elegantly, the juice stays in contact with skins for a few hours before slow fermentation between 15-18 degrees. Throughout winter, the wine remains on it’s fine lees in an outdoor vat before bottling in March. Always in the pursuit of minerality and long, vertical profiled wines, Matteo guides this mountain Chardonnay perfectly, preferring stainless steel over oak to tell the story. 2000 bottles.
Cantine Garrone Vino Rosso ‘Munaloss’ (Nebbiolo/Croatina)
Nebbiolo (80%) Croatina (20%) from 4.5 hectares of vineyards around Crevoladossola, Montecrestese, Masera and Trontano facing east, west, south west. Vines are aged 10-50 with a few 100+ years old. Spontaneous fermentation and maceration for 8-10 days. Aged in stainless steel for 12 months.
Shimmering, bright and delightful, this is phenomenal wine for its price point. It has so much verve, bursting with red fruits, alpine herbs and mouth-watering blood orange acidity.
“The 2023 Vino Rosso Munaloss is a wine of extreme beauty. The aromatics alone are just captivating. Pliant, racy and generous, the 2023 is pure seduction. Soft contours wrap around a core of sweet red-toned fruit, while kirsch, rose petal, orange peel and cedar are all pushed forward.” 92 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
“The 2022 Vino Rosso Munaloss is bright, focused and sculpted. Sweet red fruit, sage, mint and blood orange abound in this super-expressive wine. Exuberant yet classically built, the 2022 has fine energy and tons of class. This is a fabulous entry-level offering. This distinctive, giving wine would cost 3-4x much in many other regions.” - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
Cantine Garrone Valli Ossolane DOC Rosso ‘Cà d’Maté’ (Nebbiolo/Croatina)
85% nebbiolo, 15% croatina from 2 hectares of east, west, south west facing vineyards some of which have ungrafted vines 100+ years old. 10 days temperature controlled spontaneous fermentation, 12-14 days maceration. Aged for a few months in stainless steel followed by 12 months in 20hL neutral French oak botti.
Cà d'Maté is a favourite of ours for it's regional specificity. Complex and dynamic, it shows a mix of the bright red aromatics of the Nebbiolo and the dark, earthy side of Croatina. Bottles from 2016 and 2017 prove how it ages beautifully, offering so much interest and depth. 5000 bottles.
Cantine Garrone Valli Ossolane DOC Nebbiolo Superiore ‘Prünent’
100% Nebbiolo – biotype Prünent – sourced from about 2 hectares of vineyards around Crevoladossola, Montecrestese, Masera and Trontano with vines 30-100+ years old. Vines are trained to pergola (topia) and grown on sandy gneiss up to 550m. Spontaneously fermentation with 14 days maceration. Aged for a few months in stainless steel followed by 12 months in 20hL neutral French oak botti. Total class and essential drinking for all Nebbiolo lovers (indeed terroir lovers of all stripes).
“The 2022 Nebbiolo Superiore Valli Ossolane Prünent is a potent, structured wine. Beams of tannin shape this brooding Nebbiolo. Dark red cherry/plum fruit, graphite, leather, incense and dried flowers soar out of the glass.” 94 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
Cantine Garrone Valli Ossolane DOC Nebbiolo Superiore ‘Diecibrente’ *Extremely limited
Diecibrente represents alpine Nebbiolo at its most breathtaking.
“The 2021 Nebbiolo Superiore Valli Ossolane Prünent Diecibrente is a powerful, dense wine. It deftly marries textural intensity and classic structure, a combination that is so appealing. Old vines confer gravitas and mid-palate texture. Dark red fruit. Cedar, sweet pipe tobacco, dried autumn leaves and incense build through to the finish.” 95 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
“The 2020 Nebbiolo Superiore Prünent Diecibrente is gorgeous. It emerges from a single vineyard and is aged in cask. Bright and translucent, with lovely aromatics, the 2020 offers up scents of sweet dried cherry, tobacco, mint, spice, cedar and pipe tobacco. Bright acids pull it all together on the close. This understated, gracious red is a jewel and a fine example of what is possible in the Valli Ossolane appellation. Moreover, it offers superb quality for the money.” 93 points - Antonio Galloni, Vinous.
Cantine Garrone Grappa di 'Prünent' *Extremely limited
Made from the pomace of 'Prünent', Cantine Garrone's flagship Nebbiolo wine. Only 400 bottles are produced using the ‘bain marie’ method of distillation – the slowest, most intensive extraction used in craft distillation for a superior purity of flavour. The resulting grappa is extremely pure and ethereal with an extremely long, persistent finish. Another impeccable Garrone moment.
Cantine Garrone Grappa di 'Cà d'Mate' *Extremely limited
Made from the pomace of 'Ca d'Mate', one of Cantine Garrone's cru Nebbiolo based wines. A mere 600 bottles are produced using the ‘bain marie’ method of distillation – the slowest, most intensive extraction used in craft distillation for a superior purity of flavour. The resulting grappa is aged for a year in oak, adding gentle wood spice, complexity and texture to this Alpine creation.
FURTHER READING
To read more about Cantina Garrone follow the link below:
https://kermitlynch.com/grower/cantine-garrone
https://shop.kermitlynch.com/collection/nebbiolo-by-another-name/
