VALLDOLINA
ALT PENÉDES
“Here, in the Can Tutusaus estate (est. 1348), you’ll find the tiny winery of Valldolina and its 11 organic hectares of vineyards. But for the vines the estate is a forest of pine and oak trees, brooms, fennel, rosemary, thyme, lavender and many other Mediterranean plants typical of the protected and diverse ecosystem of the Penedes Garraf.”
Just half an h0ur west of Barcelona lies the Garraf Massif, a coastal limestone mountain range that’s rocky, wild, and home to some of Spain’s deepest caves. As a viticultural zone it’s classified as Alt Penedès, but the Garraf Massif should be regarded as a separate denomination as it’s terroir is far from the Penedès plains. Based in Olesa de Bonesvalls, the brilliant enologist couple Raimon and Anna are VallDolina – the modern face of Can Tutusaus, an old estate dating back to 1729.
Through painstaking restoration of key vineyard sites, they’re reshaping what we thought we knew about this hidden corner of Catalonia. They farm 11 hectares of vines, including precious Xarel·lo plantings over 75 years old.
This sanctuary of sloping terraces, pine forest and cold, remote nights may well be the pinnacle growing area for Xarel·lo. At altitude on limestone, the wines are stony, mineral and beautifully driven by brisk acidity – capable of ageing effortlessly for years in bottle, and a far cry from the broader, softer styles found elsewhere.
THE WINES
VallDolina Xarel.lo Alt Penedès
A striking Catalan white from the Garraf mountain range that rises between Barcelona and Sitges. Technically Penedès, but stylistically a world apart.
Seventy-year-old, organically farmed Xarel·lo vines are planted on pine-forested terraces around the town of Olesa de Bonesvalls. From this rugged landscape, husband-and-wife team Raimon and Anna craft a lean, mineral-driven white of real clarity and energy – think the focus of Chablis with the chiselled edge of Muscadet.
Unbelievable quality at this price point for lovers of pristine, light-fruited, driven whites.
VallDolina Xarel.lo Amfora Alt Penedès ‘Clos Ardit’
Xarel.lo mastery again, this time a textured, gentle weave style with fermentation and 8 months ageing in terracotta amphora. A mere 700 bottles are made from the 0.43 hectare vineyard called Vinya de l’Hort - this beauty is beyond rare. White wine on limestone at altitude is the ultimate combination!
VallDolina Marselan Natural Alt Penedès ‘Uvala’
Marselan is a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache that has low yields and a fascinating fruit character a little reminiscent of its Cabernet genes. Vines for this wine were planted by Raimon's father in the 1980s. Organically farmed and produced without any added sulfur (don't worry, it's a perfectly clean, extremely well crafted wine). It is dark, fruit forward and juicy yet there is ample yet gentle tannin structure underneath that keeps the wine in check and fabulous at the dinner table. Only 900 bottles produced!
FURTHER READING
https://valldolina.com/
